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So you’re looking for a used car, and you may have used Craigslist to find your coffee pot or a new couch, but never for a car before. Many of the same tips for buying used cars on Craigslist are the same for buying a used car from any private seller, so this list should be helpful to anyone looking to buy a used car. There are however some special circumstances to to be aware of when using Craigslist, so beware of the limitations to this online free posting service. With any luck, you can find a good deal using Craigslist, due to the fact that many people who might otherwise only advertise locally through signs and word-of-mouth can now sell to a broader market. Enjoy these tips and good luck car hunting!

1. Know the value of the car

One of the key elements to shopping in shopping for a used car is to know what it’s worth, so that you can appropriately decide how much you are willing to pay. There are several great websites out there for determining the value of used vehicles, and I would suggest checking all of them to get a realistic estimate for the value of the car you are looking for. Most sellers know this information as well, so they’re not going to let you lowball them, but depending on their reasons for selling the vehicle, you should be able to get the car for less than these estimates. Kelley Blue Book (www.kbb.com) Edmunds (www.edmunds.com) NADA are all good places to look.

2. Ask for more pictures

The limited resolution and max. size of pictures posted to Craigslist provides a good quick view of the vehicle in question, but in order to decide whether it is worth seeing in person or not you will need larger, higher-resolution pictures. E-mail the seller and ask for as many pictures of different angles as possible. Sellers should be able to come up with pictures, surely they know someone with a digital camera they can borrow. Ask for interior pictures as well as exterior, to help you get a feel for the total condition of the car.

3. Ask for service history  

Ask the seller if they have service records for the car, receipts for work done, or at least a record of how often consumable items were replaced. An owner who has done all the work on their own car will probably be able to provide at least a list of dates and mileages when things were changed. Look for regular maintenance, adherence to the factory schedule of upkeep. You can get a good feel for how well the person took care of their car from the records they keep.

4. Ask about known problems, damage, noises  

This is a step where many sellers will give you false information, but it is worth a shot at finding out something which may be a deal-breaker for you. As far as damage and noises go, the seller pretty much has to tell you these things as they will easily be discovered when you see the car in person/drive it, but underlying problems may be able to hide during these brief inspections, and these sorts of problems are the ones sellers often cover up or simply don’t know about.

5. Check all local Craigslist  

Craigslist postings are sorted by city and include listings within a fixed radius of that city. If the car you are looking for is somewhat harder to find or you don’t mind driving to find the right deal, check several other Craigslist sites for nearby cities. Checking multiple sites daily can be a little bit of a hassle, but if you find the car you want, it will be worth it. Checking the sites daily is recommended as new cars can go up at any time and can be sold within a matter of hours if the right person sees the posting.

6. Consider getting a carfax report  

When buying any used car, via Craigslist or not, it is never a bad idea to get a Carfax report on the vehicle in question. You simply need to ask the seller for the VIN number of the vehicle, and if they are not willing to give you the number, then the car wasn’t worth the risk anyway (VIN numbers are public information, anyone can walk up to the car and find it.) The report will only cost you around thirty dollars, but will tell you any service done at dealerships, any accidents the vehicle has been involved in (that were reported), and any changes to the title, along with some other good information. If you plan on buying used vehicles in the future, it is only around ten extra dollars to sign up for unlimited Carfax reports. If you are buying a beater car on Craigslist, maybe you don’t want to spend this extra money, but if you’re spending any significant amount of money, the investment is well worth it.

7. Consider having the car inspected at a local shop

Once again, if the car you’re buying is worth a significant amount of money and you want to make sure it is in good shape, you should ask the seller to accompany you to a shop and have them inspect it for any problems. An inspection should run you less than $100, and if the seller wants to re-affirm the quality of the vehicle they may even offer to pay for part of the inspection, so that if you do not buy the car they can have proof of an inspection for other people who are interested. Take the car to a local shop who has experience with the particular make and model, and they will know all the right places to look for common problems with the vehicle.

8. Watch out for signs of a scam  

Unfortunately, there are a variety of people who post vehicles for sale on Craigslist, and some of them may be out to scam you. One common scam involves the seller or someone working with them stealing the car back mere days after completion of the sale. To avoid this, use your judgment of the seller’s character both in e-mail correspondence and in person, and try to avoid giving the seller your address. The BMV will need it to transfer the titles, but this is the only time your address should be made known during the transaction. Another common scam is when a buyer goes to test drive a car, they are simply robbed of the cash they brought to make the purchase. To avoid this, if possible arrange your test drive in a public area, where others are around, and never take cash payment with you to the test drive. If the seller asks how you will pay if you want the car, tell them that if you decide to buy the car, you will be able to obtain cash payment within an hour of your decision, and provide it to them at the BMV when you go to transfer titles. This keeps the chances of them robbing you for your payment cash low, and will scare off potential thieves.

9. Research commons problems with the car 

The internet is a giant resource for finding out other people’s experiences with the car you are looking to buy. For many popular cars, there exist forums for owners to chat about their cars and share experiences. A quick query in a search engine with the make, model, and “common problems” may work, or you may need to do a little bit of investigation. Either way, the collective experiences of many owners can guide you to ask the right questions to the owner and to a shop technician if you choose to have an inspection done. If there have been recalls, check with the owner to make sure they have been remedied, and if there are problems which have occurred in a large number of the same cars, ask directly if the car you are buying has had them.

10. Arrange to see the car in person and test drive it 

This is by far the most important step in evaluating whether this is the car you want to buy or not. You need to try to test out every aspect of the car’s workings, so pick a test drive route which involves city driving, highway driving, lots of turns, and uphill and downhill slopes. Ask the seller to have the car’s engine be cold if possible when you arrive, so that if there are any troubles with how it runs cold you will be able to tell. Before you drive the car, take a good walk around it, looking around every angle and trying to look for any damaged spots or rust. Get down close to the ground and look up underneath the car, pop the hood and look for wet spots. This is your chance to find anything wrong and either abandon the purchase or use it as a negotiating point for your pricing.

Swine Flu has already killed over 149 people in Mexico. Forty confirmed cases have been reported in five States. Here’s how and why you now need to prepare your car for the Swine Flupocalypse.

Scientists estimate that the 1918 Spanish Flu pandemic killed between 20 and 100 million people worldwide. Most of its victims were healthy young adults. It spread everywhere from densely populated cities to isolated islands in the South Pacific. The virus is thought to have spread to one billion people worldwide, half the world’s population at the time.

Since then, health care has been improved dramatically, but governments and medical officials worldwide fear another influenza pandemic could still drastically impact the world’s population. Each year, garden-variety influenza still kills 36,000 people in America and 250 to 500,000 people worldwide.

The current Swine Flu, or H1N1 influenza virus outbreak is so scary because it looks like the virus has evolved from one affecting pigs to one affecting humans, meaning we have no natural immunity to it. If, as it seems is occurring, Swine Flu can be transmitted between humans, then the potential exists for it to be the next global pandemic. Already a key part of your everyday life, your car can prove an invaluable asset during a public health crisis such as the one that could be caused by Swine Flu. Here’s 10 easy steps you can take to turn it into a mobile Swine Flu survival tool.

1. Use Your Car

Viruses are spread by direct human-to-human contact, through the air in coughs and sneezes or by touching infected surfaces. By using your car instead of buses, trains, planes or walking, you automatically reduce your chances of infection. Keep your windows up and your A/C on.

2. Turn Your Car Into A Mobile Disinfectant Station

Stock up on an alcohol-based liquid hand disinfectant such as Purell. Use it every time you get into the car, particularly after touching things other people have such as gas pumps, door handles, gas station bathrooms etc. Insist that passengers and family members do the same, particularly children. Since most cars don’t have sinks, this is the best way to wash your hands on the move.

Clean exterior surfaces such as door handles, windows and anything else you might touch with a disinfectant spray or wipes, such as Lysol, regularly. Do the same for all interior surfaces. It’s probably a good idea to go ahead and do a thorough job now, that way it’ll be easier to clean those surfaces going forward.

3. Install A HEPA Filter

Some new cars such as Mercedes and Volvos filter air coming into the cabin through a HEPA filter already. Check with the manufacturer to see if your car has one, replace it if its more than a year old. Aftermarket HEPA filters are widely available as direct replacement or as stand-alone units.

High Efficiency Particulate Air filters were invented for use on the Manhattan Project to trap radioactive particulates. Modern HEPA filters are widely used in medical facilities to trap and, in conjunction with ultraviolet lights, kill viruses. While HEPA filters in cars should be capable of trapping tiny viruses, they’ll be even more effective at trapping droplets of spit, mucous and dander that those viruses are transmitted on.

4. Carry General Emergency Supplies

While its unlikely that Swine Flu will cause a complete breakdown in social order, it is possible that a widespread outbreak could overtax healthcare and emergency services. If things get really bad you need to expect and prepare for longer response times from emergency responders and the possibility of long lines at emergency rooms. Taking advantage of your car’s storage space to carry a comprehensive first aid kit and other supplies will help you cope with any unrelated emergency that might occur.

A basic list of essentials should include:

• Comprehensive first aid kit including: bandages, pain killers, any specific medication for pre-existing conditions, scissors, alcohol swabs, calamine lotion, soap, hydrogen peroxide, hydrocortisone cream, tweezers, instant cold packs and a first aid manual.
• Copies of insurance certificates, passports and other important documents.
• Rechargeable flashlight and spare batteries.
• Blankets for each family member (space blankets work).
• One gallon of fresh water for each person in the car.
• Nonperishable food supplies (a couple boxes of Cliff Bars are a great solution).
• List of local emergency facilities and contact numbers including contact numbers for your doctor(s), relatives, friends, schools and offices.
• Comprehensive regional map.
• Compass.
• Sturdy shoes for each family member.
• Clothing appropriate for inclement weather (disposable parkas are perfect).
• Survival knife or hatchet.
• Fire Extinguisher.
• Climbing rope.
• A cheap, pay-as-you-go cell phone with plenty of credit.
• Comprehensive toolkit and a spare tire in good condition and fully inflated.
• $500 in small bills.
• Wind-up Emergency band radio.
• A backpack capable of carrying most of the above.
• Car repair manual for your specific vehicle.
• Motor oil.
• Coolant.
• Spare fuses, fan belt and other common consumables specific to your vehicle.

5. Write Down A Specific Emergency Response Plan

Create and make copies of a specific emergency response plan for your family. Who picks up the kids? Where do you meet? Where will you go? In an emergency, cell phone networks can become overburdened. If you have a specific plan in place beforehand you’ll save time and therefore, potentially lives.

6. Stock Up On Anti-Infection gear And Keep It In Your Car

If Swine Flu becomes a widespread epidemic, it may be prudent to take specific anti-infection steps such as wearing face masks, or, in extreme circumstances, maybe even medical shoe covers and nitrile gloves. Buy plenty, keep them in your trunk and dispose of them each time you enter your car. Combined with disinfectant, this could help create a valuable system to prevent infection.

7. Keep Your Car In good running Order

This sounds like common sense, but it could save your life. Make sure your tires have plenty of tread, keep up with your service schedule, ensure oil and coolant levels remain high and never go below 3/4 tank of gas. Should the need for evacuation or travel ever arise, you’ll be prepared.

8. Keep A Spare Key Somewhere Safe

Mount a spare key into a hidden and secure location underneath your car. Make sure all family members know where it is. If your keys include a remote key fob, seal it in a waterproof container. Make sure the location you choose cannot be easily detected and make sure you mount it securely so it stays in place over rough roads, in bad weather and at high speeds. If your life depends on your car, you don’t want to find yourself without a key, especially in modern cars with alarms/immobilizers and other electronic systems.

9. Buy Oseltamivir, Keep In Car

Oseltamivir is an antiviral drug that can treat Influenza A viruses, of which Swine Flu is a member. After the H5N1 Avian Flu scare, the government stocked up on Oseltamivir in addition to disinfectants and other basic epidemic supplies. But do you and your family members want to wait in line at an Emergency Room among infected patients for your dose? Oseltamivir is most effective when administered within 48 hours of the first systems. Cut out the middleman, keep it in your car and take it at the first signs of flu-like symptoms: aches in the joints and throat, fever, fatigue, headache, irritated eyes, abdominal pain, coughing and sneezing. Tamiflu is just Oseltamivir, but manufactured by Roche.

10. Don’t Panic!

If there’s one thing people as a group aren’t good at, it’s coping with an emergency situation. Take advantage of the fact that you’re more prepared than most to take a step back, analyze the situation and decide the most effective way to respond. If roads are already gridlocked, don’t set out on them. But, if you follow the above steps and it does come time to head for the hills, you’ll have a head start.

"The power is in the hands of the consumer," says Michael Caudill, auto expert and spokesman for NADAGuides.com. A tightening credit market, the need for automakers to move metal, and some sizable government and automaker incentives are making it easier for buyers — who have the money and the credit — to make a deal. While auto experts often caution that a reliable used car gives the buyer the most bang for the buck, that might not be the case today. "New cars with the compelling incentives being offered are, in a lot of ways, a better value," says Jack Nerad, executive editorial director of Kelley Blue Book, in Irvine, Calif. But no one wants to leave any money on the table. So if you’re buying now, here are 10 tips to help drive away with the best deal:

1. Bargain over the Internet

Sure, you show up to test drive the car, but you negotiate price and financing via computer. You can even have the vehicle delivered to your home or office and sign the paperwork there, says Philip Reed, senior consumer advice editor for Edmunds.com. You’ll save three ways. First, most Internet department sales people are salaried and get extra bonuses based on volume rather than commissions based on the sales price, he says. That means they have the incentive to cut you the best price to move cars, he says. The average savings when you deal over the Internet is $1,000 to $2,000, says Reed.

Second, you avoid the dreaded financing and insurance, or F and I, office. This is where buyers can encounter the add-ons and extra fees which threaten to negate whatever great deal they negotiated over the Internet or in the showroom, he says.

Third, you can shop and negotiate during moments when it’s convenient for you. No killing time on a hard plastic chair while your salesman "wrestles" his manager for a better deal.

2. Pit dealers against each other

The object here is to start a bidding war for your business. Once you’ve determined which make and model you want, contact a handful of dealers via the Internet, tell them what you want and when you want to buy. Then ask for their best price, says Jeff Ostroff, chief executive of CarBuyingTips.com. Let them know you’re talking to other dealers and plan to give the sale to whoever cuts you the best deal, he says.

"Think of it as reverse eBay," Ostroff says. "They’re haggling over you."

Do your best to make it a true comparison. "Be very, very specific about the vehicle you want," says Chris Denove, vice president of J.D. Power and Associates in Westlake Village, Calif. "Color choices, options, etc." And be very clear on what that price includes. What you want to avoid is a lot of fees tacked on later. Do you really want to see how low they can go? E-mail 10 different dealers, says Eric Evarts, associate editor for autos at Consumer Reports in Yonkers, N.Y. After 10 quotes on the exact same car, the lowest of the 10 "is the lowest you’re going to get," he says.

3. BYOF (bring your own financing)

Get pre-approved for your auto loan before you start car shopping. Apply to a handful of banks and several credit unions to see who can give you the best rate and terms.

Keep the applications within a 14-day period and all the loan applications will only count as one inquiry, minimizing the impact on your credit. Once you settle on a lender, that pre-approval should be good for about 60 days, giving you plenty of time to select your car and close the deal, Ostroff says.

4. Negotiate the vehicle price first

Car deals have a lot of moving parts these days: the price of the car, the credit for the trade-in, the financing rate and the incentives. "I would try and keep the different transactions separate in my mind," Nerad says. But he admits, "That’s tough to do." To make your best deal, focus on only one part at a time, starting with getting the best price on your new car. Only after you have that in writing do you start talking about incentives which would be subtracted from the negotiated price, or the trade-in, or the financing, says Reed. What you don’t want is the money you saved on one part of the deal added on somewhere else.

5. Realize that everything is negotiable

Many times, add-on fees are preprinted on auto sales contracts, says Ostroff. The not-so-subtle message to buyers: This is a fixed cost and nonnegotiable. Wrong, Ostroff says. In reality, everything is negotiable, and smart buyers know it. Preprinted numbers can be crossed out, or an equal amount can be subtracted elsewhere on the same form.

6. Get educated

"Know what a good deal is," says Carter Myers III, president of Carter Myers Automotive, a Charlottesville, Va.-based dealership group. Manufacturers are offering incentives on more than two-thirds of the vehicles on the market, Reed says. What you need to know are the incentives that manufacturers are giving to buyers or dealers on the car that you want.

You can get some great information on sites like Edmunds.com, ConsumerReports.org, KBB.com, NADAGuides.com, CarBuyingTips.com and JDPower.com. Edmunds has a "true market value" feature that reveals what buyers are paying for the same make and model in their area and nationally. One of the most powerful sources for information on incentives is the automakers own Web sites, says Reed.

"Become an expert in over three weeks or so," he says. "It can save you a lot of money." You can also enter your chosen car model and "incentives" or a similar term into a search engine, Consumer Reports’ Evarts says. Because safety is important as a way to save money on insurance, check out the crash tests and other safety factors at IIHS.org and SaferCar.gov.

7. Time the market

One more way to save: Buy at the end of the model year, Ostroff says. "August through October is usually a really good time to buy if you want to get the current year at a discount," he says. If that doesn’t suit your schedule, you sometimes can get a better deal by buying at the end of the month if the sales staff is trying to make its quota, Ostroff says.

8. Shop your trade-in

The dealership selling you a new vehicle isn’t necessarily the one that will offer you the highest price on your old one. If you have the time, take it around to a handful of dealers and see who can offer the best price on a straight sale. And don’t forget the Car Allowance Rebate System, or CARS, popularly known as the "cash for clunkers" program. If you’re trading a vehicle that meets the criteria, you could be eligible for a sizable incentive at purchase time.

9. Think hard about vehicle choice

If you want to get the most for your money, look carefully at the car, not just the deal. Will it serve your needs now and into the future? "In this era of great car deals, it’s important not just to get a great deal on a cheap car but to get a great car," Evarts says. For buyers these days, that means picking "a car you can hang on to," he says. When it comes to choosing a dealer, convenience also can be important, especially if dealer maintenance is part of the equation. So is finding a dealership that makes you comfortable. If you find a dealer that is "convenient, trustworthy and gives good service," it can make smart financial sense to buy there even if that isn’t the rock-bottom price, Myers says. "You’re buying a $30,000 vehicle. Every once in a while, you get one that’s got a problem. You want someone who’s going to go to bat for you."

10. Pull a switch

What if the dealer you prefer doesn’t have the vehicle you need? Many times, dealers can do a swap, says Caudill, who used this strategy to purchase his car from the same dealer he planned to service the car. These days, if you’ve found the right car and the right dealer, says Caudill, "they’ll find a way to make it work.".

At some point in our lives, we all have to buy a car. Whether it be brand new or second hand, we usually end up going through a dealer. This list is designed to help you save money by not being ripped off by the little tricks that dealers use to maximize their profit and your loss. Be sure to give other tips for saving on a new car in the comments.

1. Mark-Up 

This is the most obvious of ways a car dealer makes a profit. The difference between the dealer cost (invoice) and MSRP is typically 5-10%. This may not sound like a ton of mark-up, but when you consider that you’re dealing with thousands of dollars then the profit margin could be quite significant.

For example, a car that a dealer pays $30,000 could generate a profit of around three-thousand dollars. And then multiple that times a few hundred cars a month, and a car dealer could make almost a million dollars a month on mark-up alone.

2. Hold Back and Advertising 

When a dealer sells a new car (not a pre-owned), the sale is RDR’d to the manufacturer (basically informing the manufacturer that one of their units has been sold). Once this sale has been verified, the manufacturer pays the dealer a set amount of money for “hold-back” and advertising. This amount is listed on the invoice in a less-than-obvious location and is often abbreviated/written in a way that a customer will be unable to figure out the information in the event he sees the actual invoice. For example: if an educated customer will only pay a certain percentage over invoice, then that percentage is calculated by the “invoice” price before any “hold-back” or advertising is deducted. Once the deal is funded and the contract is RDR’d, the manufacturer will send the dealer a pretty substantial amount of money (I’ve seen some “hold-back” and advertising fees as much as $1500).

3. Undervaluing a Trade-In

When a person trades in a car, the dealer will surely attempt to undervalue the trade to make an immediate profit, and then a profit later when the trade is sold. The immediate profit comes from what is called the ACV (actual cash value). If a trade is really worth $11,500 (ACV) and the dealer only shows the customer $10, 500, then there is an immediate thousand dollar profit from the start. The trick is to know where a dealer gets his appraisal information (the most common are Black Book and Manheim Auction Reports. Dealers will RARELY match Kelly Blue Book and NADA) and work off that number to get a fair value for your trade. The other means the dealer will make a profit is when he sells your trade in. There are many financial and credit factors that can generate a profit from your trade. Simple example: your trade is bought from the dealer for $10,000. The dealer will then send your car through service and detail and make sure it is prepped for retail and safe to drive (he’ll also insure the car in most instances). Your old car will now be put up for sale for $13,999. Now, here’s where many factors come is based on the potential buyers situation. The lenders will “book out” a car based on a standard process (typically, a program called Dealer-Track will provide access to NADA for the banks and the dealerships to see how much a car can be sold for). Banks will loan a certain percentage of the cars loan value based on the customer’s credit worthiness. Let’s say the car “books out” for $13,125 (this is 100%), and the potential buyer has great credit. The lender will loan up to 135% of the cars value for that customer. Which means the dealer can sell the car to that well-qualified customer for over $17,000 and make a nice profit ($7,000). On the other hand, if a person has poor credit, then the banks will loan less than 100% and the dealer will have to take the deal at a lesser profit, or the customer will have to put some cash down to generate a profit the dealer will agree to.

4. 4-Pack 

New and Used cars are “packed.” This is a number that is immediately added to the car (in addition to the already existing mark-up). This is typically money that goes to pay the owner. The amount of pack varies between dealerships, new, used, etc, but I have never seen a “pack” less than $500. I’ve even seen some cars “packed” $1500. Let’s say a dealership sell 250 cars in one month, and the average “pack” is $1000: the owner makes a nice quarter million dollars a month on “pack” alone (3 million a year- not a bad salary).

5. Customer Service Fee

This is the biggest farce of them all. This is a dollar amount the dealer says goes to pay for the process of handling your paperwork, tag work, title work, tax work, loaner car, etc. The doc fees will fluctuate from dealer to dealer (I’ve seen $299 to $699). This is a legitimate process that does require paying a handful of people for their work, but- in no way does it cost anywhere close to the amount they’re charging. Most of the paperwork can be done is a few minutes and over the phone, internet, fax, etc. The overage naturally goes into management’s pockets.

6. Bump-Stickers

Bad bad business practice right here. A “bump sticker” is legitimate-looking sticker that the dealer places next to the manufacturer’s window sticker with a higher priced MSRP than the actual MSRP. The dealer will try and justify this added cost by suggesting the car had some special product applied to the paint or the fabric, or some window etching was done, or they’ll try and itemize all the work that needed to be done to get the car prepped for retail (insurance, gas, detail, service, PDI- [post delivery inspection], etc), or they might try and tell you that this car had additional mark up because it’s a “hot item” and people are paying over retail for that car. It’s all a joke and educationally insulting. The theory is once the “bump sticker” is negotiated away, then the customer will feel that he got a pretty substantial discount, when- in fact- he’s simply paid full MSRP for the car: not a very good deal.

7. Service Contract

When a customer agrees to numbers, they will have to go the F and I office (Finance and Insurance) to finalize the car deal. This is where all the legal forms are signed, etc. However, this is also where a lot of money is made for the dealership. One of the big money makers in the car business comes from the sale of Extended Service Contracts (extended warranty). I would say nine out of ten extended warranties will cover things that are never likely to break. Additionally, you’ll need to pay a deductible (on top of the $1400 dollars you just paid for the warranty) each time you try and use the warranty. The mark up for this product is typically mandated by the state you live in, but you can expect to pay twice its original value. One good thing about an extended service agreement is that most of them are refundable (prorated based on what you haven’t used). Additionally, a certified pre-owned model is typically a better bet than an extended service agreement (because it’s backed by the manufacturer’s name. Extended warranties are typically backed by the private dealer with a lot less public reputation at stake). 

Now this is a product that I strongly recommend you buy: it could turn out to worth its weight in gold. However, you don’t have to pay $599 for it at the dealership when you can get it at your local credit union for $150. Basically, GAP insurance satisfies the car loan in the event of theft or total loss. Your insurance company will only pay ACV for your loss, but GAP insurance picks up the “negative equity” you have remaining on your loan. For example: My car is worth $11,000, but I owe $16,000. In the event of a total loss of my car, the insurance company will only pay my lender $11,000 towards the loan leaving me having to come out of my pocket $5000 to satisfy the loan. However, GAP insurance pays the difference and I’m off Scott free to go buy a new car free and clear of any additional payment on the lost car.

9. Down Payment

A person with good credit should never have to put a down payment towards the purchase of a new car. However, there are some instances where it may be a necessary (too much negative equity in trade, personal need to lower monthly note, etc). But typically, if a customer is satisfied with their payment, and they don’t have a significant amount of negative equity, then the bank should have no problem lending money to a well qualified buyer. Sometimes a salesman or sales manager will say ‘The lender is requiring 20% down,” or they might say “You’re going to have to pay your taxes in cash. The bank will finance the car, but they will not finance any taxes or fees.” This is a lie. If you can secure your own financing (personal bank, credit union, etc) before you buy, then that would be in your best interest and eliminate a lot of the shenanigans that can happen at the dealership. Additionally, when the sales managers offer is itemized with a down payment and payment listed, the payment- more times than not- can be retained without the requested money down. Down payments usually result in sheer profit for the dealership.

10. Holding Points of Rate

This little gem is another reason car dealers get a bad rap. When a sales manager submits your application to lenders for approval, the lenders will reply with what’s called a “call back.” The “call back” details the requirements for the loan. Example: let’s say the sales manager submits the numbers to a prime lender- we’ll use BB & T- for approval. BB & T will reply with terms (24/36/48/60/72 months), maximum amount financed, stip’s (proof of income, proof or residency, references, etc), and what’s called a “buy rate.” The “buy rate” is the interest rate the lender has approved for the loan- let’s use 7.9%. Well, here’s where the finance manager can steal from you. Typically, the lender will allow the dealership to make 2 points of rate if you’re still ok with the payment. That means the rate you’ve earned is 7.9%, but the dealer can contract you at 9.9% and the bank will pay the dealer the overage from the rate. This puts LOTS of cash in their pockets. Next time you buy a car and finance with one of the dealerships banks ask the finance manager to see the call back from the bank and compare that rate with the interest rate he’s trying to sign you up for. If he refuses, then he’s holding points of rate and he doesn’t want you to see that he’s trying to get you to pay a higher rate.

If you’re shopping for car insurance, you know there are certain crucial factors influencing your rate that are out of your hands. Such factors include your age, gender and record of prior claims. Despite this, there’s a lot you can do to score a lower rate, and your choices bear more power than you might think. Here are 10 tips guaranteed to help you get the best rate possible on your auto insurance.

Of course, this charge is more significant for those with small premiums. If you’ve got a king-sized premium and feel you’d get a better rate of return by investing your funds elsewhere instead of paying up front, then the installment route will probably best suit your needs.

Lists come out every year detailing the most stolen cars and, with that, what steps one can take to deter car thieves. Yet, a car is stolen in the United States every 24 seconds according to the Insurance Information Institute. Auto theft continues to thrive despite those lists and regardless of new anti-theft technology that emerges with every new model year.

What else can you do besides not drive the most stolen car in America and equip your car with anti-theft protection? We’re going to give you the unique opportunity to look inside the mind of the car thief and learn how he steals cars. With the help of police auto theft experts and auto theft professionals, we’ve compiled this list of some of the ways thieves steal cars followed by suggestions of how to stop them from doing it to you.

We have no intention of providing new information to the wrong people and simply want to educate the good guys.

We haven’t disclosed anything that car thieves don’t already know and we have left out specific details to avoid making this a "how-to." Knowing the insider tricks of auto thieves will motivate you to take the necessary precautions to defend your vehicle.

1. Bump against the car to check for a car alarm

Since it seems like everything from a loud Harley to a rumbling garbage truck can set off a car alarm, people have been conditioned to tune them out. Instead of a motion-sensitive car alarm, use one that has a pager that will notify you as soon as your alarm is activated.

2. Break the window or jimmy the lock to gain entry into a locked car

Don’t tempt car thieves. Keep valuables out of plain sight. Take them with you or store them in the trunk. Also, if you have a stereo with a removable face plate, take it with you instead of tucking it away in the glove box.

3. Cut the steering wheel itself if there’s a steering wheel lock

Instead of locking just your steering wheel, "lock" your car’s ability to go by using a starter disable switch and putting it in a place where only you can get to it.

4. Look for exposed wiring that can be cut or for the central unit of the car alarm to deactivate it

Instead of going to a big retail chain store, have your car alarm installed by a professional car alarm installer, preferably a reasonably shady one. Unlike retail chain employees, these experts know what it takes to make your car elusive to crooks.

5. Look for car alarm decals to figure out which method to use to eliminate the alarm

Never display stickers that advertise what sort of car alarm you have, or audio system for that matter. Consider using a hood lock cable so the thief can’t get to your battery or car alarm mechanism.

6. Jump into an unattended running car while the owner is at the ATM, dropping off videos, etc

Never leave your keys in the ignition even for a quick errand. Car theft is a crime of opportunity, so don’t make it easy for them to grab yours.

7. Look for the car’s title, registration or anything with a home address on it

Keep your registration and insurance information with you and never leave personal information in your car.

8. Stake out sporting events, movie theaters and shopping center parking lots for the car of your choice since they offer the largest variety of cars in one area

Whenever possible, park in lots and garages that have security and/or parking lot attendants. If not, don’t park in the farthest corner of the lot but rather near the entrance of these facilities to insure the most foot traffic (and the most potential witnesses). Also, opt for paying the extra couple of dollars for the monitored parking lot instead of using the free parking on the less-trafficked side streets.

9. Find the second set of keys the owner "hid" in the car

Don’t leave spare keys in your car or in a magnetic box attached to the underside of your car. Thieves know where all the "hiding places" are.

10. Copy specific vehicle information and take it to the manufacturer to get a replacement key made

Instead of VIN etching the major parts of your vehicle, which doesn’t turn most thieves off, drop your business card into the doors through the window slots to identify your car as yours.

Even though auto theft is a crime of opportunity, if a crook really wants your car, he’ll do whatever it takes to get it regardless of steering wheel locks or car alarms. But with the above knowledge, you can slow him down, make your car inconvenient to him and, hopefully, discourage him from attempting to steal your vehicle. Layering your car with anti-theft protection, especially if it’s at the top of the most stolen vehicles list, is a good start. But, as with anything that is of value to you, the most important protection you can give your car is to take a proactive approach to security when you leave it unattended.

These days, cars are made better than ever before. Drivers of most new models can expect a good 200,000 miles’ worth of engine life — as long as they follow the instructions in the owner’s manual to the letter. Sadly, most of us never reach that milestone, because of bad driving habits that take years off the lives of our beloved cars. Even worse, our nasty driving habits can end up costing us thousands in repairs that could have been prevented.

But there’s hope. Here are 10 ways you can add longevity to your car and keep it out of the shop.

1. Start It Up Properly

"Most of the wear on an engine happens when you start the car," says Edmunds.com’s automotive expert Karl Brauer. "If you can get the starter stuff down, you’ll find cars will wear much less over time."

An even more destructive habit: revving the engine. Believe it or not, this won’t help warm up the car. In fact, revving can do serious damage to the engine and significantly shorten its life. Engines need oil to run smoothly. But right after you turn over the ignition, the oil is still sitting in the pan. When you floor the gas pedal, you’re asking the engine to work overtime without lubricant — putting metal to metal. Wear out this most important drive train component and you can expect to pay $3,000 to $5,000 for a new one.

2. Come to a Complete Stop

Ever pull out of a parking spot and pop your car into drive while it’s still coasting backward? If the answer is yes, you can kiss your transmission goodbye. By shifting into drive while the car is still in reverse, you’re asking the transmission to do the work of the brakes — and that will wear down your gears, says Edmunds.com’s Brauer. Essentially, you’re putting several months of wear and tear onto that transmission compared with normal driving, he says. So while a transmission driven properly should last more than 100,000 miles, one owned by an aggressive or impatient driver will give out long before that. Fixing the transmission will run anywhere from $1,000 and up, while a brand new one sells for at least $3,000. And by not braking before shifting gears, you’re also wrecking your drive shafts, which propel the wheels forward. If you notice that your front suspension and handling start to feel a little sloppy, it could be a sign of damaged drive shafts, warns David Champion, the director of automobile testing for Consumer Reports. Replacing both can cost $500.

3. Don’t Run the Needle Down to Empty

You may not realize it, but sediment collects at the bottom of the fuel tank over time. You never want to do anything to unleash that dirt into your fuel system. Even the smallest amount could clog or damage parts, says Tony Molla, spokesman for the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence and a former automotive technician. You can stir up sediment by driving with less than a quarter of a tank of gas. Prolonged abuse could wreck your fuel injector, which costs about $80 to $100. You may also need a new fuel filter, which is twice as expensive. And if you’re the type who loves to drive on fumes, you could be in for a big surprise. By continually using the filthiest gas in your tank, you could, one day, need a fuel-system flush and cleaning. Expect to pay a startling $1,000 for this service.

4. Turn Gently

The next time you roll into a gas station, take a minute and check your tire pressure. Too little or too much pressure can cause all sorts of problems. If you drive with too little air, your tires will get quite hot; excessive heat will wear out the tread much faster than normal driving. If you drive with too much air, less rubber will hit the road than necessary. Next thing you know, the outside portion of your tire will be doing all the work and wearing out faster than the inside. And don’t fool yourself thinking that your tires are under warranty. That manufacturer will replace them only if one, for example, gets punctured by a nail, says Consumer Reports’ Champion. Poor maintenance is your problem. Since proper air pressure is different for every car, check the sticker on the door. Never look at the tire itself for guidance, he says. Checking your tire pressure regularly can save you a bundle. New tires these days start at $100 — each.

6. Don’t Ride the Clutch

We all know we aren’t supposed to ride the clutch while we drive. But some of us use the clutch to avoid rolling backwards while on a hill. If the clutch is balanced just right it will even propel the car forward on an incline. While this is a neat party trick, it doesn’t exactly add longevity to the life of the clutch. If you want to get 100,000 miles out of it, you’d better use the emergency brake instead. Another clutch-preserving tip: Pop the car into neutral and take your foot off the clutch while sitting in traffic. Ignore this advice, and you’ll have to shell out $500 for a new one someday.

7. Listen to Your Car

Every little sound your car makes is a cry for help. Ignore it, and a small problem could turn into a huge one. The most common sound people ignore is squeaky brakes. As soon as you hear the sound, you probably need new brake pads, says Lynne Cardwell, a co-owner of Sacramento, Calif.-based Car Care Center and a member of the Automotive Service Councils of California. That’s a $100 problem. Keep driving until the metal starts to screech, and you’ll need to replace the brake rotor. That’ll set you back $400 or more.

Steering systems need attention, too. Once you hear the whine of the steering wheel, you need to have it checked. If you’re lucky, you may need to replace only the fluid or an aging hose. But if the pump is damaged from continued driving with insufficient fluid flow to the pump, the pump itself will need to be replaced, Cardwell says. As we mentioned earlier, that’ll cost $300 to $500.

8. Heed Those Warning Lights

Don’t ignore the warning lights on your dashboard. While we all lead busy lives and may think the problem can wait, it usually can’t. By waiting even a few days, you can turn a simple problem into a disaster, says Cardwell. In some cases, you need to stop your car immediately and get it towed. Otherwise, you could do serious damage that could cost thousands of dollars to fix.

Here are two such situations. The first is when you see that your engine is overheated. "If the temperature gauge crosses into the red zone, it is as dangerous to your car as a heart attack or stroke is to the human body," says Cardwell. The price of driving even a few extra blocks could cost you your engine. You’ll also ruin your engine if you drive after the loss of oil pressure. The engine oil light will pop up if this happens. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine, says Cardwell. Drive without it, and you’ll cause catastrophic damage.

9. Drive More

Rust is another concern, since moisture can build up under your car. One of the first components to be affected is the brake rotor. Once the rotor rusts, it must be replaced. As we mentioned earlier, a replacement will cost you at least $400. So if you’re planning on going on a long vacation, ask a family member or friend to take your car out for a spin from time to time.

10. Neglect Will Cost You

Most important: the oil change. Regular oil changes every 3,000 or 4,000 miles can double the life of your car, says Cardwell. But you also need to have the filters changed, belts checked (and sometimes replaced) and all of the fluids inspected. This is sometimes referred to as a health check or a general inspection. Do it roughly four times a year — which should cost you about $200 annually — and your car could last 250,000 miles, she says. (During the later years, some small parts may break down, but replacement costs should be minimal.) "You could have an inexpensive hose that, if ignored, could cause a huge problem with overheating," Cardwell says.

Buying a used car can be a substantial investment, with considerable costs involved. In tough economic times saving every penny counts; plus why would you pay more than you have too.

Here are a few quick tips when buying a used car.

1. Financing

Keeping your loan term to the shortest amount of time will save you money in the long run. Generally, it is wise to keep the term within 36 months if possible.

2. Loan

Obtain a loan for a used car via a third party lender. Generally used car dealers will charge higher rates or tack on additional fees, plus it puts you in a weaker position when negotiating the cars price.
   
If you are in the military or work for the government, there are lending institutions which provide good rates to government personnel, which are unavailable to the general public.

3. Private sale

Generally you can obtain a used car for a lower price from a private seller. The vehicle may not have a warranty and almost never comes with a guarantee. However, since there is no middle man in the transaction, both the buyer and seller of the used car come out better in the long run.

4. Inspection

Have a friend who is a good mechanic? Have them inspect the used car for less. Throw a few dollars his way and skip the expensive used car inspections. Additionally, you will be building a relationship which might come in handy in the future.

5. Car Fax Reports

If you search online numerous websites list discount coupons for car fax reports for your used car. The discount rate isn’t much, but every penny counts!

6. Wear and Tear Items

Most used cars have worn out parts: tires, brakes, cracked glass, broken/burnt out bulbs and exhaust leaks. Check the car over rigorously as these items add up. Additionally, make sure all items needed to pass inspection are in good condition; or have the seller knock off a few dollars to compensate. Also, used cars with broken inspection items are harder to sell, so the owner may come down in price.

7. Change your own oil

Changing your own oil can save you money, especially if you use synthetic.

8. Application Fees

When obtaining a loan for a used car normally there is an application free. See if the loan officer will waive the fee. Tell the loan officer you just had a kid and times are tuff. Heck, flirt with the person; you might be surprised how far you can get.

9. Ladies bring a guy

While this will sound sexist, it is strongly advised that ladies bring a guy when buying a used car. Some individuals are of the opinion women are not knowledgeable about cars, and will try to push you into a bad deal. Having a guy with you, even if they are just a friend or relative will help to eliminate that problem. Additionally, having two sets of eyes is always better than one.  

10. Buy out of state

Some states do not require you to pay tax up font when purchasing a used car. Buying out of state can save you money initially; additionally your state of residence might have a lower tax rate. In fact there is a good resource for locating out of state cars LocalCarHub.com.

Bonus – Know what you are buying. Do the research; learn what similar cars are selling for. Check the blue book value of the car.

Enjoy your used car.